Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
